I had another great trip to Scilly with my family, with plenty of time to get around the islands and take photos of nature. The birdlife is very different at this time of year compared to when I visited in April, with many fewer species that are passing through on their migrations. However, this time of year is great to see the (mostly) resident shorebird species as their feeding behaviour works like clockwork with the rising and falling of the tides.

This year I was lucky enough to take part in the centuries-old tradition of the Swan Upping. This is a five-day journey up the Thames where a flotilla of traditional boats manned by smartly-dressed 'Swan Uppers' row 79 miles from Sunbury-on-Thames to Abingdon.

As a child, I remember hearing that widely-told fact: "Did you know the Queen owns all the swans in the country?". But this is not quite true! While the Crown holds the right to claim ownership of all 'unmarked' mute swans swimming in open waters across the UK, this doesn’t mean they own every swan.

Historically, swans were considered a delicacy for royal banquets, and ownership rights were granted to individuals and organisations by the monarchy. Today, just three organisations retain these rights: Abbotsbury Swannery, the Vintners and the Dyers. Abbotsbury Swannery, located on a coastal lagoon in Dorset, is a managed colony where swans live and breed under the care of the swannery's staff, who maintain the environment to support their needs. In contrast, the Vintners and Dyers are two London livery companies, and they hold ownership rights to wild swans found on the River Thames. These river swans live in the wild, navigating the challenges of life on a busy waterway. This difference highlights the role each organisation plays in the ongoing stewardship of mute swans in the UK, and it’s where the centuries-old tradition of the Swan Upping comes in!

During the Swan Upping, every third swan encountered across the five-day journey along the Thames is claimed by either the Crown, the Vintners, or the Dyers. In the past, notches were made to the top of swans' beaks to claim ownership. These days, individuals can be marked through much less obtrusive methods, and instead a metal ring is placed around one leg, which is a harmless method of identification commonly used in bird research. However, much more has changed than just the marking method. Although swans were once prized for their meat, they are now protected as a species, and so the modern-day Swan Upping is a celebration of conservation and education.

Conservation is essential for the swan population on the River Thames as boat activity, fishing, and riverbank construction has disrupted their natural habitat. Additionally, predation by non-native species such as mink, and injuries from discarded fishing tackle, pose significant threats to swans. The King’s Swan Marker works closely with swan rescue groups to protect swans on the river, helping to ensure the population's survival. The annual Swan Upping also provides a valuable opportunity to collect data on how the population is fluctuating over time with changes in land-use, while also tracking how other bird populations (such as geese, ducks and grebes) are changing.

Education also plays a large role in the Swan Upping. Children from local schools visit the Swan Uppers along the banks of the River Thames, gaining the opportunity to learn about swan biology and the habitats they need. Seeing cygnets up close often sparks a sense of wonder and fosters a connection with nature, inspiring future generations to value and protect wildlife.

Participating in the Swan Upping gave me a deeper appreciation for this wonderfully quirky and uniquely British tradition, blending history, conservation, and community engagement. It’s a celebration of how even the most unusual customs can inspire connection with the natural world. Embracing traditions like these reminds us of the importance of cherishing not just the natural world, but also aspects of our cultural heritage that shape how we protect the environment for generations to come.